Set Your Suspension Sag

Sag is the amount your suspension compresses under your static body weight. It's the most critical setting on your full suspension mountain bike. Correct sag ensures your wheels can drop into holes and track the ground effectively, providing grip and control. Without it, your bike will feel harsh and skittish.

First, get into your full riding gear. This is crucial for an accurate weight measurement.

For the Rear Shock:

1. Slide the rubber O-ring on the shock's shaft right up against the main air can seal. If you don't have an O-ring, you can loosely attach a zip tie instead.
2. Carefully get on the bike. It's helpful to lean against a wall to avoid bouncing, which will skew the reading.
3. Settle into your normal "attack position"—stand up on the pedals with your cranks level, chest low, and weight centred.
4. Without bouncing, carefully get off the bike.
5. Measure the distance in millimetres that the O-ring has moved down the shaft. This is your sag measurement.
6. To calculate your sag percentage, divide your sag measurement by the shock's total stroke length (you can find this in your bike's manual) and multiply by 100. For example, if the O-ring moved 15mm on a 60mm stroke shock, your sag is (15 / 60) * 100 = 25%.
7. Your target is 25-30% sag. If your sag is too high (e.g., 35%), add air with your shock pump. If it's too low (e.g., 20%), release air using the pump's bleed valve. Repeat the process until you hit the target.

For the Fork: The process is the same. Aim for a lower sag percentage of 15-20% for the front fork. This provides more support under braking and on steep terrain.

Adjust Rebound Damping

Rebound damping controls the speed at which your suspension extends back to its original position after compressing. Getting this right is key to feeling in control. If rebound is too fast, the bike will feel like a pogo stick, bucking you after hits. If it's too slow, the suspension won't recover in time for the next bump, "packing down" and feeling harsh.

1. Locate the rebound adjuster. It's almost always a red dial. On the fork, it's usually at the bottom of the right leg. On the rear shock, it's typically near the air valve or lockout lever.
2. Turn the dial all the way in one direction to feel the full range of clicks, then turn it all the way back, counting the clicks. Set it to the middle of its range as a starting point.
3. Perform a "kerb test." Stand next to the bike and forcefully push down on the handlebars or saddle to compress the suspension, then quickly let go.
4. Watch how it returns. It should return quickly but smoothly, in one controlled motion. If it bounces or overshoots, your rebound is too fast (turn the dial towards the tortoise/minus symbol). If it seems to return very slowly and sluggishly, it's too slow (turn the dial towards the hare/plus symbol).
5. Adjust by one or two clicks at a time and re-test until it feels controlled.

Configure Compression Damping and Climb Switches

Compression damping controls how the suspension resists forces, essentially how it feels when it compresses. Most modern full suspension mountain bikes simplify this with a 2 or 3-position lever on the fork and shock, often labelled 'Open', 'Pedal' (or 'Trail'), and 'Climb' (or 'Lock').

• Open Mode: This provides the least compression damping, allowing the suspension to move freely. Use this for descents and rough, technical terrain where you need maximum traction and bump absorption.
• Pedal/Trail Mode: This adds some low-speed compression damping. It helps reduce suspension movement from pedalling forces ("pedal bob") while still allowing the suspension to absorb bumps. This is your all-purpose mode for rolling terrain and general trail riding.
• Climb/Lock Mode: This setting makes the suspension very firm, sometimes nearly rigid. It's designed for smooth climbs on roads or fire roads where pedalling efficiency is the top priority. Avoid using this on rough trails, as it will reduce traction and provide a very harsh ride.

For your initial setup and first few rides, it's best to leave the suspension in the 'Open' mode. This allows you to feel how the spring rate (from your sag setting) and rebound are working without interference. Once you're happy with those, you can start experimenting with the other modes on different types of trails.

Dial In Your Cockpit and Controls

An uncomfortable bike is a bike you won't want to ride. Ergonomics are personal, but there are excellent starting points for a comfortable and controlling setup.

1. Brake Lever Position: Sit on the bike in your attack position. Your brake levers should be positioned inboard on the handlebars so that your index finger naturally falls on the very end of the lever blade. This gives you the most leverage and control for one-finger braking.
2. Brake Lever Angle: Your levers should be angled downwards so they form a straight line with your arms and hands when you're in the attack position. This prevents wrist strain. A common mistake is having them angled too flat (parallel to the ground).
3. Shifter and Dropper Post Levers: Position these so you can reach them easily with your thumb without having to loosen your grip on the handlebars.
4. Saddle Height: For general riding, your saddle should be high enough that when you place your heel on the pedal at its lowest point, your leg is straight. This will give you a slight, efficient bend in the knee when your foot is properly placed for pedalling.
5. Saddle Fore/Aft Position: With your cranks level (horizontal), the bony bump just below your kneecap on your front leg should be directly above the axle of the pedal. Adjust the saddle forwards or backwards on its rails to achieve this.

Set Your Tyre Pressure

Your tyres are your first line of suspension, and their pressure is just as important as your shock settings. The right pressure provides a balance of grip, comfort, and rolling speed. There is no single "correct" pressure; it depends on rider weight, tyre size, whether you're using tubes or a tubeless setup, and the terrain.

A good starting point for an average-weight rider (around 75kg) with a modern tubeless setup is:

• Front Tyre: 22-25 PSI
• Rear Tyre: 25-28 PSI

From here, you can adjust. If you're riding on wet, slippery roots, you might drop the pressure by 2-3 PSI for more grip. If you're riding hard-packed, fast trails, you might add a couple of PSI for better rolling speed. Listen and feel for your tyres squirming in corners (pressure is too low) or feeling harsh and deflecting off rocks (pressure is too high).

Perform a Final Safety Check

Before you hit the trails, it's vital to give your bike a final once-over to ensure everything is secure and working correctly. A great way to remember this is the "M-Check," which follows the shape of the letter M over your bike.

1. Rear Wheel: Start at the rear axle. Check that it's tight. Squeeze the rear brake and try to push the bike forward; it shouldn't move. Spin the wheel to check it's straight.
2. Saddle and Seatpost: Move up to the saddle. Check that the seatpost clamp is tight and the saddle doesn't twist.
3. Cranks and Pedals: Move down to the bottom bracket. Wiggle the crank arms to check for any play. Check the pedals are screwed in tightly.
4. Handlebars and Stem: Move up to the cockpit. Check the stem bolts are tight by standing over the front wheel and trying to twist the handlebars. Check the headset for play by holding the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth. You shouldn't feel a knock.
5. Front Wheel: Move down to the front axle. Check it's tight. Squeeze the front brake and check it holds firm. Spin the wheel to ensure it runs true.

This simple check takes less than a minute and can prevent a mechanical issue from ruining your ride or causing an accident.