How To Change Bike Pedals

This guide explains how to approach how to change bike pedals, including the preparation, practical steps, common mistakes, and final checks that help you finish with confidence.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse Threading Watch out for

Before You Start

Preparation is key to a smooth and frustration-free experience. Taking a few moments to gather your tools and understand the quirks of pedal threading will save you time and prevent potential damage to your bike's crank arms. Let's get everything in order.

What You Need

Safety and Compatibility Checks

Before you put a tool to your bike, a couple of quick checks are vital. The single most important thing to understand is that your bike's pedals are not threaded identically. This is a deliberate design feature to prevent one of them from unscrewing as you ride.

Check first: The left pedal loosens clockwise, which is the opposite of a standard thread. Remembering "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" will only work for the right-side pedal. Applying force in the wrong direction can permanently damage the threads on your crank arm, which is an expensive part to replace.

Step-by-Step Instructions

With your tools gathered and your new pedals identified, you're ready to begin. We'll work on one side at a time, starting with the right-hand, or drivetrain, side of the bike.

Quick Reference

Common Problems When You Change Bike Pedals

Sometimes, even a simple job can present challenges. Here are the most common issues you might encounter and how to solve them like a pro.

Problem: The Pedals Are Completely Stuck

This is the number one issue, especially on older bikes or those that had pedals installed without grease. Don't panic. First, double-check you are turning the tool in the correct direction for that side. If you are, you just need more leverage. Try slipping a hollow metal pipe (a "cheater bar") over the handle of your spanner to extend it. If using an Allen key, you might need a model with a longer handle. You can also apply a penetrating oil like WD-40 Specialist Penetrant or PlusGas to the thread area, let it soak for 15-30 minutes, and try again. A few gentle taps on the tool with a rubber mallet can also help break the corrosion bond.

Problem: The New Pedal Won't Screw in Smoothly

Stop immediately. If you feel significant resistance when starting a pedal by hand, it's almost certainly cross-threaded. Forcing it will destroy the soft aluminium threads in your crank arm. Unscrew it completely and inspect both the pedal axle and the crank threads for damage. Clean them again and carefully re-attempt the insertion, paying close attention that the pedal is perfectly straight. If it still won't go, the crank threads may be damaged, which usually requires a visit to a bike shop to have them chased or re-tapped with a special tool.

Problem: My New Pedals Are Creaking

A creak or click that happens on every pedal stroke is incredibly annoying. Ninety percent of the time, this is caused by one of two things: insufficient grease on the threads or insufficient tightness. The fix is simple. Remove the pedals, clean the threads on both the pedal and the crank, apply a fresh, generous layer of grease, and reinstall them, making sure they are firmly tightened to the proper specification.

Advanced Tips for Changing Bike Pedals

Once you've mastered the basics, a few extra details can improve the longevity and performance of your setup.

Using a Torque Wrench

While "firmly tight" is good enough for most, components do have official torque specifications. Most pedals should be tightened to around 35-40 Newton-metres (Nm). Using a torque wrench ensures you hit this target precisely. This is especially important for lightweight or carbon fibre cranksets, where over-tightening can cause catastrophic failure and under-tightening can cause creaking or damage to the threads over time.

Understanding Pedal Washers

Some crank and pedal combinations benefit from a very thin washer between the pedal axle and the crank arm face. These are typically recommended by crank manufacturers (especially for carbon cranks) to protect the finish and distribute the load evenly. They can also be used to make very minor adjustments to your stance width, or "Q-factor". If your old pedals had them, it's a good idea to use them with the new set.

Dealing with Different Axle Standards

While 9/16" is the standard for almost all modern adult bikes, be aware that some older bikes, kids' bikes, and BMX bikes with one-piece "Ashtabula" cranks use a smaller 1/2" thread. The two are not compatible. Always ensure your new pedals match the crankset you have. If you're buying online, the product description will always specify the thread size.