Define Your Riding Discipline

The first and most important step is to identify what kind of mountain biking you do most often. Bike manufacturers design models for specific purposes. Being honest here ensures you get a bike that excels on your local trails.

• Cross-Country (XC): Focussed on climbing speed and pedalling efficiency. These bikes have less suspension travel (typically 100-120mm). If your rides involve long climbs and flowing singletrack, look at models like the Rocky Mountain Element.
• Trail: The all-rounder category. These bikes are capable climbers and confident descenders, perfect for a bit of everything. They usually feature 130-150mm of travel. The Rocky Mountain Instinct is a prime example of a versatile trail bike.
• Enduro / All-Mountain: Built for descending performance on steep, technical terrain, but still able to be pedalled back to the top. Suspension travel is longer (150-170mm) and the geometry is slacker for stability at speed. Consider the Rocky Mountain Altitude or Slayer if this is your focus.

Look at the terrain around you. Is it rolling hills or steep mountains? Smooth dirt or a maze of roots and rocks? Your local trails are the ultimate deciding factor.

Determine Your Correct Frame Size

Choosing the wrong size frame is a costly mistake that can ruin your riding experience. Do not guess. Go to the official Rocky Mountain website, find the model you are interested in, and locate its sizing chart.

You will need your height and inseam. While height gets you into the right ballpark (Small, Medium, Large, etc.), your inseam is crucial for checking standover height—the distance between the top tube and your body when standing over the bike. You should have a few inches of clearance for safety.

Modern bike sizing also relies heavily on two other measurements: Reach (how long the bike feels when you're standing on the pedals) and Stack (how high the handlebars are relative to the bottom bracket). If you are between sizes, a shorter reach (smaller size) will feel more playful and nimble, while a longer reach (larger size) will offer more stability at high speeds. If possible, visit a local dealer to sit on different sizes to feel the difference.

Understand Key Rocky Mountain Technologies

Rocky Mountain bikes are known for their innovative features, particularly their adjustability. Understanding these will help you appreciate the bike's value and tune it to your liking.

The most important feature is the RIDE-9™ Adjustment System, found on many of their trail and enduro bikes. It uses two interlocking chips in the suspension linkage that allow you to change the bike's geometry and suspension characteristics. By rotating these chips into nine different positions, you can make the bike steeper for better climbing or slacker for more stability on descents. You can also make the suspension feel more progressive (firmer at the end of the stroke for big hits) or more linear (plusher throughout).

You might also see terms like FORM™ Alloy tubing and Smoothwall™ Carbon. These refer to their proprietary methods for constructing frames, designed to optimise strength, stiffness, and weight. Knowing this helps you understand the craftsmanship behind the frame itself.

Compare Build Kits and Components

Once you've chosen a model and size, you'll see different build options at various price points. The frame is often the same, but the components attached to it change. The letters in the model name give you clues: "C" usually stands for a carbon frame (e.g., Instinct C50), while "A" stands for an alloy frame (e.g., Instinct A30).

• Drivetrain: This includes the gears, shifters, and cranks. Higher-end groupsets (like Shimano XTR or SRAM X01) are lighter, offer more gear range, and shift more smoothly under load than entry-level options (like Shimano Deore or SRAM SX).
• Suspension: More expensive builds feature forks and shocks with more adjustments (like high and low-speed compression damping), allowing for finer tuning.
• Brakes: Premium brakes offer more power and better heat management, which is critical for long, steep descents. Look for 4-piston callipers for more aggressive riding.
• Wheels: Lighter wheels make a huge difference in how fast the bike accelerates and climbs. Carbon wheels are a significant upgrade found on top-tier models.

Your budget will be the main guide here. It's often better value to get the best frame you can afford (e.g., a carbon frame with a mid-range build kit) as components are easier to upgrade later than a frame.

Perform Initial Assembly and Safety Checks

If your bike arrives in a box, you will need to perform some basic assembly. If you are not mechanically confident, we strongly recommend taking it to a professional bike shop. If you choose to do it yourself, proceed with care.

Typical assembly steps include:

1. Install the Handlebar: Carefully attach the handlebar to the stem. Tighten the faceplate bolts in an 'X' pattern to ensure even pressure. Use a torque wrench to tighten to the manufacturer's specification (usually printed on the stem).
2. Install the Front Wheel: Insert the thru-axle and tighten it securely. Make sure the brake rotor is correctly aligned within the brake calliper.
3. Install the Seatpost and Saddle: Grease the inside of the seat tube lightly (use carbon gripper paste for carbon frames/posts). Insert the seatpost to your approximate height and tighten the seat clamp, again using a torque wrench.
4. Install Pedals: Pedals are side-specific. The right pedal (R) tightens clockwise, and the left pedal (L) tightens anti-clockwise. Apply a small amount of grease to the threads before installation.
5. Full Bolt Check: Go over every single bolt on the bike with a torque wrench, including suspension pivots, stem bolts, and crank bolts, to ensure they are at the correct torque spec.

Set Your Suspension Sag

This is the most critical setup step and has the biggest impact on ride quality. Sag is the amount your suspension compresses under your static weight. Getting it right provides a balanced platform for both climbing and descending.

You will need a shock pump and a friend to help you balance, or a wall to lean against. Dress in your full riding kit, including shoes, helmet, and hydration pack.

1. Rear Shock: Pump the shock to a starting pressure (e.g., your body weight in pounds as PSI). Slide the rubber O-ring on the shock shaft against the seal. Carefully sit on the bike in your normal riding position without bouncing. Gently step off. Measure the distance the O-ring has moved. Divide this by the shock's total stroke length (you can find this on the manufacturer's website). Aim for 25-30% sag for a trail/enduro bike. Add air to decrease sag, or release air to increase it.
2. Front Fork: The process is similar. Slide the fork's O-ring down. Stand on the pedals in your "attack position" (central, elbows bent). Let the suspension settle. Measure the sag. Aim for 15-20% sag for the fork. Adjust air pressure as needed.

Record your final PSI settings for both the fork and shock.

Adjust Cockpit and Contact Points

Fine-tuning where your hands and body connect with the bike is key for comfort and control.

• Saddle Height: Set the saddle height so that when your heel is on the pedal at its lowest point, your leg is nearly straight. You should have a slight bend in your knee when your foot is properly placed on the pedal.
• Saddle Angle and Position: Start with the saddle perfectly level. You can slide it forwards or backwards on its rails to adjust your position relative to the pedals.
• Brake Levers: Your brake levers should be angled down so that your wrists are straight when you are in your attack position. Position them inboard on the handlebars so your index finger rests naturally on the very end of the lever blade for maximum leverage.

Make Your First RIDE-9 Adjustment

Your bike will arrive in the neutral position (Position 5). This is an excellent starting point and we recommend doing your first few rides in this setting to get a baseline feel for the bike.

After you've ridden a familiar trail, you can begin to experiment. Do you want the bike to feel more stable on fast descents? Try a slacker position (like Position 1 or 3). Do you want it to feel quicker and more agile on tight, climbing trails? Try a steeper position (like Position 7 or 9).

To make an adjustment, you will need two hex keys. Loosen and remove the bolt, reposition the two interlocking chips to your desired setting (refer to the guide printed on the frame or the manual), and re-install the bolt, tightening to the correct torque. Only ever make one change at a time, and ride the same trail again to isolate the effect of the change.